The Okavango Delta never disappoints. Chasing the golden light of the coming sunset we suddenly stopped with our guide whispering “Nkwe” (this is the Setswana word for Leopard) his eyes scanning the surroundings.

We followed his gaze and there, striding purposefully through the underbrush, was a magnificent male leopard. He was a giant, his coat a rich golden brown with dark spots, and his eyes piercing as he surveyed his domain. As we watched, he began to scent mark, rubbing his cheeks and flanks against the grass and trees, leaving a pungent reminder of his presence for all to know this was his territory.

What struck me was his nonchalance - he was utterly unbothered by our presence, barely giving us a glance as he continued his rounds, his tail twitching lazidly behind him. It was as if we were just another feature of the landscape, like the Acacia trees or the winding waterways. Sundowners were fantastic that evening.